I’ll be honest, when I booked my trip to Eritrea, I had never even heard of the country, and did absolutely no research. I was browsing one of my favorite offbeat travel tour companies, Against The Compass, and they had a 9-day Eritrea tour, which included the TimKat festival (I also had no idea what that was).

As the trip got closer, I started doing my research, people online were saying, “it’s the North Korea of Africa.” I thought, “Crap, what did I get myself into”.

Turns out, I was worried about nothing! I arrived in Asmara 3 days early, so I could do my own exploring, before the tour started.

I actually met a guy on my flight who was originally from Asmara, but moved to Sweden, and he eased my worries a lot. He told me Asmara was one of the safest countries in Africa, plus he gave me loads of tips.

Eritrea was never a country on my radar. I never thought in a million years I would visit, but there I was. Asmara truly blew my mind. As a city in Africa, I was expecting it to be chaotic, loud, and overwhelming, but it was none of that.

The people were so incredibly friendly and welcoming, the history is fascinating, the coffee is good, and it’s a city that truly surprised me in the best way possible. You really need one day or two days max to enjoy everything the city has to offer.

Here is my ultimate guide on the best things to do in Asmara.

Things to do in Asmara

The National Museum of Eritrea

The National Museum of Eritrea is worth going into if you have some extra time in Asmara to kill. It was originally housed in a former governor’s palace, but in 1997 moved to a former school for women.

It’s pretty small, and they have some cases showing statues, tools and various other historical objects, paintings, and taxidermy. There weren’t a lot of descriptions, so I was looking at a lot of old rocks, but unsure where they came from or how old they were, and no photos were allowed inside.

The museum was free and took about 15 – 20 minutes to walk through.

Fiat Tagliero Building

Fiat Tagliero is one of the most incredible examples of the modernist architecture in Asmara. It was designed by Italian architect Giuseppe Pettazzi and completed in 1938. It was originally built as a service station for the Fiat automobile company.

The building’s most remarkable feature is its gravity-defying concrete wings that extend horizontally from the central structure without any visible supporting columns.

These impressive jutted wings were inspired by the form of an airplane, embodying the Futurist movement’s fascination with speed, technology, and flight.

According to local legend, when construction was completed, the workers were afraid to remove the wooden supports from beneath the wings, fearing they would collapse. Pettazzi reportedly threatened to kill the contractor if the supports were not removed, confident in his engineering calculations.

Today, Fiat Tagliero continues to stand as a testament to innovative engineering. If you are with a guide, you may be able to climb to the top of the building. Our guide managed to find the person in charge, and we got incredible photos from the top.

Asmara Bowling Center

Built in the late 1930s, this bowling alley was originally used by the US military when they were stationed in the country and after all these years, it is still is in use! It’s believed to be one of the oldest purpose-built bowling facilities in Africa.

Inside, the center still maintains much of its original character, including vintage bowling equipment. The lanes use manual pin-setting rather than automatic machines.

I recommend playing a game. It’s one of the hardest alleys I’ve ever bowled in. The lanes aren’t smooth, and the ball will roll in all directions. I usually bowl with bumpers which they don’t have so you can imagine how much I struggled, but it was a lot of fun!

The Bowling Center continues to function as an active recreational spot for locals, with pool tables and a bar.

Tank Cemetery

The Tank Cemetery is a haunting open-air museum that serves as a stark reminder of Eritrea’s long struggle for independence.

This site contains hundreds of rusting military vehicles, tanks, artillery pieces, and other war machinery stretched across a vast field. Most of these remnants date from Eritrea’s 30-year war for independence from Ethiopia (1961-1991).

As you walk around, you will find:

• Soviet-made T-55 and T-62 tanks
• Ethiopian military vehicles
• Armored personnel carriers
• Fighter jet parts
• Artillery pieces
• Various military transport vehicles

These military relics come from different eras and origins, you’ll find equipment from the Soviet Union, the United States, and other countries that supplied arms to Ethiopia during the conflict. After Eritrea gained independence in 1993, these abandoned war machines were collected and gathered in this location.

The Tank Graveyard is not a formal tourist attraction but has become a point of interest for visitors to Eritrea and you do need a permit to enter, which can be obtained from a local guide.

Medebar Market (Asmara’s Recycling Market)

The Medebar Market was one of the coolest markets I’ve ever been to. Medebar is known as Asmara’s “recycling market” or artisanal metalworking district. When you walk through you’ll see an incredible array of craftsmanship, and resourcefulness at its finest.

This market features dozens of small workshops where skilled craftsmen transform recycled materials, primarily metal from discarded military equipment, old cars, and industrial waste, into practical new items.

During the war, money was tight, and the country became isolated, so people had to get creative with whatever materials they could find, turning old items into useful new ones. The market is still going strong!

Not only will you find metal shops, but also a ton of stands selling peppers. If you walk in from the front entrance, that is the first thing you will smell. The women can be seen grinding these peppers into powder or selling them whole.

Try Some Italian Food

Pizza and Spaghetti House

The Italians left a mark on Asmara not only with the architecture, but the food as well. You will find a ton of Italian restaurants in the city. Now, I don’t want to get your hopes up and tell you the Italian food in Asmara will be as good as what you may find in Italy because it won’t be. It is worth trying, though!

Asmara didn’t have a ton of restaurants to choose from, and The Spaghetti & Pizza House was one of the few restaurants our tour leader told us was good to eat at. So we ate there a few times. The first time I got the Carbonara which was not good, but the second time I got the spaghetti bolognese, and it actually wasn’t too bad.

Someone on my tour said the cream caramel was the best! She even ordered 2 for lunch one day.

I would definitely recommend checking this place out. Keep in mind, they don’t start serving pizzas until the evening, but not a bad spot to try some pasta.

Asmara Theater and Opera House

The Asmara Theatre and Opera House was built in the early 1920s by the Italian architect Odoardo Cavagnari. The theatre was an important cultural center for the Italian community, hosting operas, plays, concerts, and other performances.

Although, it doesn’t host performances anymore, it’s become a beautiful café serving some of the best tiramisu in the city, and if you sit outside, you will get a lovely view of Liberation Avenue.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Rosary

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary stands as Asmara’s most iconic landmark, with its impressive bell tower visible from every viewpoint in the city. The locals call it “the Big Ben” of Asmara, and I could definitely see the resemblance. Built between 1922 and 1923 by architect Oreste Scanavini, the cathedral showcases stunning Lombard Romanesque architecture, drawing inspiration from the medieval cathedrals in northern Italy.

The cathedral served as the primary place of worship for the Italian Catholic community in Eritrea and continues to be to this day. You can wander inside, but only in the evenings from 4 or 5 pm. It is truly worth going inside.

Liberation Avenue

Liberation Avenue is the main boulevard and commercial heart of Asmara. The original name of the street was Viale Mussolini, but later renamed Liberation Avenue after Eritrea gained independence 1991.

You’ll definitely end up on Liberation Avenue if you’re wandering around Asmara. I must’ve walked up and down this street about twenty times during my stay! It’s also where many of the cities landmarks are located, such as the cathedral of our lady rosary and cinema impero. Plus, you will notice a huge café culture, where you will see locals sitting outside sipping coffee or beer.

I ended up doing as the locals do. One afternoon, I got a cappuccino, grabbed a table at a café and met so many people. The Eritreans are so kind and always up for a chat or will give recommendations.

Italian Cemetery

I’m fascinated by cemeteries because they tell you so much about a place through the stories of the people who once lived there. The Italian cemetery in Asmara is a beautifully maintained place where generations of Italians have been laid to rest. Among them are 778 soldiers who died between 1890 and 1950, spanning from the early colonial campaigns all the way through World War II.

The cemetery’s story begins in 1889, when it was established near the southern gates of Forto Baldissera. This came after General Baldissera made the strategic decision to occupy the high ground west of the city, and the cemetery was created to serve this new military outpost. Fittingly, some of the very first burials were soldiers who had fought in Italy’s campaign to seize control of the highlands.

This cemetery doesn’t only have Italians. There is an area with local burials as well. It’s definitely worth checking out. I am not sure what the hours are or if we were just lucky it was open. When you enter, you will go through a huge gate and may need to walk around the cemetery wall to find it, depending on what direction you are coming from. We thought it was closed at first and then found the entrance a few minutes later.

Khulafa Al Rashidun Mosque

The Khulafa Al Rashidun Mosque is one of the most important religious sites in Eritrea and although according to our guide, non-Muslim women cannot go inside (I know, not fair!), it’s such a beautiful building to admire from the outside. Surprisingly, it was also built by the Italians in 1938.

It is estimated that 49% of Muslims live in Eritrea, with the majority being Sunni. The mosque is located in a very busy part of the city, near the covered markets and lies at the head of a large square, so it’s a great place to do some people watching.

Synagogue of Asmara

Built back in 1906, it’s now the only remaining trace of what was once a thriving Jewish community in Asmara. The story begins with Yemenite Jews who made their way from Aden, drawn by the business opportunities that came with Italian colonial development. Over time, they were joined by Italian Jews and later by refugees fleeing Nazi persecution in Europe.

By the end of World War II, nearly 500 Jewish residents lived in and around Asmara. The synagogue itself was built to accommodate this growing community. It can hold up to 200 people for services and celebrations.

You can still see the beautiful architectural details with the distinctive slate blue entry doors, and the Star of David stained glass window.

But like so many stories from this region, political upheaval changed everything. As Eritrea went through British occupation, Ethiopian annexation, civil war, and eventually the harsh Derg regime in the 1970s, the Jewish community began to scatter.

Some emigrated to Israel, others fled to Europe or North America. By the time Eritrea gained its independence, virtually the entire community had disappeared.

Today, there’s really just one person keeping this history alive, Samuel Cohen, who grew up in Asmara and chose to stay behind as the community’s caretaker. He maintains the synagogue and preserves the history.

Unfortunately, getting into the synagogue is quite difficult. Our guide couldn’t find the keyholder (I assume is Samuel Cohen), so we just admired it from the outside, which in my opinion, is still worth a look.

Cinema Impero

Cinema Impero is one of those places that just stops you in your tracks. Built back in 1937, this stunning Art Deco cinema was designed by architect Mario Messina and named to celebrate Mussolini’s conquest of Ethiopia, a pretty grandiose name for what has become one of the coolest landmarks in the city.

From outside, it kind of looks like a cassette tape with those distinctive round lights dotting the front. The main hall still has its original stucco plasterwork, and those massive semicircular door handles that form perfect circles when the doors are closed together.

What makes Cinema Impero, so special isn’t just its history, but the fact that it’s still very much alive. People still go there to watch movies, and soccer games are often streamed there. A few of people on my tour went to an Arsenal game and said it was a pretty cool experience.

I actually tried countless times to get a photo of the inside, but the lights never seemed to work. There’s also a really nice café inside. They made a pretty mean cappuccino and served excellent samosas!

Enda Mariam Coptic Cathedral

“Enda Mariam” means “the place of Mary” in Tigrinya, and this Orthodox cathedral has been exactly that for generations of Eritrean Christians.

Since the 6th century, there has always been a church where the Enda Miriam stands today. But the cathedral standing there now took shape around 1938, though architect Ernesto Gallo had designed the modernist church back in 1920.

They kept traditional Axumite elements like the horizontal stone beams and alternating layers of brick and stone.

For those that don’t know what Axumite is it refers to the people and culture from the ancient Kingdom of Aksum, which was a major civilization that existed in the Horn of Africa from around the 1st to 7th centuries CE. The kingdom’s main city was Aksum (you’ll also see it spelled as Axum), which is in present-day Ethiopia and Eritrea.

One thing I found super fascinating is the sound of the bells. They’re made from fake elephant tusks, and when they ring out across the city, they have this beautiful melodious tone that’s pretty unique.

Try Asmara Beer

Asmara beer is produced by Asmara Brewery, Eritrea’s only brewery. The brewery was founded in 1939 by Luigi Melotti, an Italian engineer who came to Eritrea to work on road construction. He established the brewery on a site that had previously been used as a depot for road construction materials. Originally called Melotti Brewery, it started by producing liquors.

During WWII, Italy lost control of Eritrea to the British, but the Melotti family stayed to continue running the company. When founder Luigi died in 1946, his wife Emma took over the business along with their son, making “Melotti beer” famous throughout East Africa and exporting to English colonies.

The family remained even after Ethiopia annexed Eritrea, but in the 1970s under Colonel Mengistu’s regime, all factories were nationalized.

Today it’s 84% owned by the Eritrean State, with the remainder held by small companies and individual shareholders.

They make an Asmara Lager that is crisp, and refreshing. You will be able to find it at every bar and restaurant in the city.

Sip Coffee at a Local Café

Like in Italy, coffee culture in Asmara is huge. There are no shortage of coffee shops and cafés to check out in Asmara, but these are just a couple of my favorites.

Bar Impero | Address: 8WPR+P35, Harnet Ave, Asmara, Eritrea

Bar Impero is inside the iconic Cinema Impero movie theater, so the interior was really lovely. They served one of the best cappuccinos I have had in the city and really tasty samosas! It’s also a fun place to meet locals. We met so many people!

Cinema Roma | Address: Sematat Ave, Asmara, Eritrea

Cinema Roma was my favorite café in Asmara! I loved the massive old camera in the center, and it just had a very old 1940s feel to it. I came here one day with my book and spent a few hours sipping my coffee and reading.

Attend Timkat festival

Timkat is a beautiful holiday that is worth visiting Asmara for. At the end of January, the entire city celebrates for three days. The whole thing centers around Mai Timket, which is this special water basin in the city that becomes the heart of everything.

It’s got a beautiful statue right in the middle showing John the Baptist baptizing Jesus, and during Timkat, people travel from all over the country just to be part of the celebrations here.

It starts in the evening before the main day, and you’ll see processions moving through the streets from all the different Orthodox churches. The streets of Asmara fill up with thousands of people, all dressed in white robes, following these processions as they make their way toward Mai Timket.

Then, very early on the main day of Timkat (4 am), babies are baptized at the water basin. I didn’t get up that early, but some people on my tour walked around and said it was amazing!

Then in the morning at about 8 or 9 am The ceremony at Mai Timket  starts and involves prayers, singing, dancing, and the blessing of the water by the Patriarch.

Info about the water blessing and what it means: Timkat is celebrated to commemorate Jesus being baptized by John the Baptist in the Jordan River. So when the patriarch blesses the water at Mai Timket, it becomes sacred in the same way that the Jordan River was sacred during that biblical moment.

When they declare the water blessed, people storm to Mai Timket to bathe in the water and splash it around. It got crazy! People were filling their water bottles and drinking it. I had to move away from the water basin, or I was going to get soaked.

I will be honest, for most of the festivities I had no idea what was being said or what was happening, but I still enjoyed myself, and it was fascinating to be in Asmara for one of their holiest celebrations.

I booked my tour with Against the Compass, which was a 9-day tour of Eritrea and it included the Timkat celebrations.

Try Honey Wine

Hdmona Restaurant

Someone told me I had to try honey wine in Eritrea, so I made that my mission when I arrived. Although, I didn’t actually get to try it until the last day.

Honey wine, also known as “mies” or “tej” in Eritrea, is a traditional fermented alcoholic beverage made primarily from honey and a special type of hop called “gesho” (Rhamnus prinoides).

The gesho gives the honey wine this unique bitter edge that balances out all that sweetness from the honey. Without it, you’d just have this cloyingly sweet drink, but the gesho gives it this complex, almost herbal flavor.

No two batches of honey wine are exactly the same. The alcohol content can sometimes range as low as 7%, but it can go up to 20% or even higher depending on how long it’s fermenting.

The traditional way to serve it is in these beautiful flask-shaped vessels called berele. They have this wide bottom and narrow neck, and apparently the narrow opening was originally designed to keep insects out of the sweet wine.

I happened to find a place based on a recommendation from my hotel that serves it! Even though honey wine is from Eritrea and Ethiopia, it’s very difficult to find in Asmara. So the receptionist got me a cab and told him where to take me. She told him to walk me in and make sure I got the wine. The place was called Hdmona Restaurant and located in an area of the city called Expo, and kind of hidden.

When I walked in, there was a group of about 5 people sitting and having a beer. I am pretty sure they worked there and weren’t actually open, but they invited me over to drink some honey wine with them.

I really enjoyed it. It was fizzy and not too sweet, but very, very strong. They asked if I wanted another, and I had to decline, or I would have been rolling out of there, but definitely if you want to try honey wine in Asmara, Hdmona Restaurant is the place! Get your hotel to arrange a cab. It’s pretty far from the city center and even if I had gone on my own, I don’t think I would have been able to find it.

Pushkin Monument

It’s surprising and kind of random that there is a monument of Pushkin, but what we learned is that Alexander Pushkin, who’s considered the father of modern Russian literature, was actually one-eighth African through his maternal great-grandfather, Abraham Hannibal.

There’s been some debate over the years about exactly where Hannibal came from, but Eritrea has made a compelling case that he was from their region, making Pushkin part Eritrean.

When they unveiled it, Russian Parliament members flew in, and they actually brought soil from Pushkin’s grave in Russia to place at the base of the statue. The timing wasn’t coincidental either, they unveiled it during the 210th anniversary of Pushkin’s birth.

Indulge in Italian Pastries

If you are looking to try traditional Eritrean desserts, you may be disappointed to know that most of the desserts you’ll find are Italian! Or you will be ecstatic because you love Italian pastries. There are a few bakeries I visited that I really enjoyed.

Dolce Vita | Address: 8WJR+W8Q, Marsatekly Ave, Asmara, Eritrea

The first thing I noticed when walking into this pastry shop was the adorable Disney font on their sign out front and the Christmas decorations still up even though it was the end of January. I ended up going to Dolce Vita a few time because the pastries were so good, and I loved the interior of the place. They also had a really lovely courtyard out back.

Asmara Sweet Cafe | Address: 8WPQ+GG7, Asmara, Eritrea

Asmara Sweet Cafe is another lovely bakery. I got a jam filled donut, which was very good! I also absolutely loved the decor. Definitely worth checking out!

Partake in a Coffee Ceremony

This is an experience you definitely will have if you visit Eritrea. During my visit, we got to partake in many coffee ceremonies, and every single one was truly special.

The Tigrinya name for the ceremony is called “boon”. Traditionally, it’s the women who perform the ceremony. The hostess starts by spreading fresh grass and flowers on the floor around where the ceremony will take place. Then she lights incense, which fills the room with this amazing, calming aroma.

Once she is ready to make the coffee, the raw, green coffee beans will be sorted. Then, she roasts them in oil, which happens in a shallow pan over an open flame. Once they’re perfectly roasted, she walks around the room, so everyone can smell the beans.

Next comes the grinding, done by hand with a mortar and pestle. The freshly ground coffee then goes into this beautiful clay pot called a jebena, which has a round bottom, long neck, and pouring spout.

The coffee is brewed and served in three rounds. The first round is called “awol,” the second is “kale’i,” and the third is “baraka,” which means “blessing.” Each round gets progressively weaker as more water is added to the same grounds.

She pours the coffee from quite a height into these tiny, handleless cups, without spilling. There is a technique to how it’s poured, and it creates this beautiful stream. Often there are small snacks served alongside, like popcorn, which is what we got served most of the time.

My favorite part about the ceremony is how it brings people together. When I went off on my own in Asmara on my last day, I wanted to do one more ceremony. I found that the locals also joining, were so lovely to talk to. The ceremony takes about 45 minutes, so it allows lots of time to chat.

I recommend heading to Parco “Hawakil”. There is a woman who is there every day, and she is incredibly sweet. We happened to be there on the one day the entire city was taking wedding photos, so there were about 50 photoshoots happening, but after walking around for 20 minutes we finally found her!

Have Dinner at Albergo Italia: The Oldest Hotel in Asmara

This hotel was built in 1899, marking it as the oldest hotel in Asmara!

They did a major renovation back in 2004, but they were really careful to preserve all the historical character. There are marble floors, beautiful old paintings on the walls, and gorgeous dark wood furniture. The rooms are furnished with antiques.

Although, it’s a beautiful hotel to visit, I wouldn’t stay here. Our guide said the rooms are dirty and have bed bugs, and wifi doesn’t work. It’s such a shame because the hotel is stunning, and we even got to check out one of the suites.

I ate at the restaurant and ordered a lasagna, which was one of two items they had on the menu and not bad. The restaurant is also very lovely! Then, I went to the bar to have some beer and that is where I met the owner, who was really fascinating. We must have chatted for about two hours, but then he asked me out, which was kind of weird.

Cinema Roma

Cinema Roma was built in 1937, but was originally called Cinema Excelsior. The name got changed to Cinema Roma during the fascist period. They have been showing movies for almost 90 years.

By the 1940s, Asmara had over ten cinemas, making it one of the first places in Africa with extensive movie theater infrastructure.

The building was designed as a proper cinema palace with marble facades, orchestra and balcony seating, and a 900-person capacity. Initially it served mainly Italian colonists, showing Italian films.

After the British defeated Italy in 1941, the cinema continued operating under British administration and gradually became more accessible to Eritreans.

They did a major restoration back in 2005, and restored it to look exactly like it did in the 1940s. The foyer has been turned into this charming little café called Cine Roma Cafe. There’s even this huge old film projector on display.

Cinema Roma is still showing movies. They screen current films, and sometimes you can even catch football matches during big tournaments like the World Cup or Champions League.

Visit the Oldest Pastry Shop: Bar Pasticceria Vittoria

Bar Vittoria is a really special place. It was established about 100 years ago, but the current owner bought it in 1988. He closed it for repairs and reopened in 1991 after the country became independent.

For over forty years, Bar Vittoria has opened early to serve people rushing to work who need a quick breakfast and coffee, as well as providing a place to relax and unwind at the end of a long workday. You can’t leave Asmara without making a stop here for a pastry and coffee.

Cinema Odeon

Built in 1937, Cinema Odeon is a true stunner!  Back in the day, the cinema scene in Asmara was pretty stratified. Different theaters were built for different social classes. The Odeon was specifically designed for Italian officers, while other cinemas like Impero and Capitol served the upper-class colonists.

These days, the Odeon is mostly closed, which is kind of sad. Our guide had all the connections and found someone with the key so we could look inside. It hasn’t been renovated, so it looks the same as it did when it was in use, although, very worn down, but still beautiful.

Asmara Train Station

The Asmara train station, I would say, was one of my favorite things I did. The railway system dates back to the 1880s. It was originally designed to connect Asmara to Massawa on the coast. The railway ceased operations in 1975, but after years of war and neglect, the Eritreans decided to restore parts of the railway themselves rather than take foreign loans.

They’ve got about eleven steam engines that survived, and at least six of them have been rebuilt to working condition. There are vintage railcars from the 1930s, old diesel engines from the 1950s, and all sorts of railway artifacts you can see.

You used to be able to charter a train before 2020, but unfortunately it’s not possible anymore, but I have heard the experience was incredible. Now, it’s a really cool place to walk around, and you can even board the trains to see what they look like inside. We must have walked around for at least an hour,

To visit the station our guide had to get a permit, so if you are visiting Asmara alone, make sure you can find a guide who can help you. It’s absolutely worth it.

Visit Asmara’s Oldest Pharmacy

Farmacia Centrale dates back to the early 1900s and hasn’t changed much. The pharmacy still displays its medicines and products in the same beautiful carved wooden cabinets and drawers that it opened with.

Eat the Best Eritrean and Ethiopian Food

When it comes to food options in Asmara, there isn’t a ton of options. Our tour leader told us before the trip to be careful where we eat. He has had tour groups that have gotten terrible food poisoning. Food handling isn’t up to the same standards that we are used to in the west, but he did give us all a list of about 5 places that were safe options.

These are a few of the places I ate at and enjoyed. I was a bit of a rebel and went to some restaurants that were not on the list, but they looked clean, and I didn’t get sick, so that’s something!

Ghibabo Restaurant & Pizzeria

We must have eaten at Ghibabo 5 times. It was the best restaurant according to our tour leader and I have to agree. They serve a mix of Eritrean, Ethiopian and Italian food. The Italian food wasn’t my favorite, but the local dishes were so good! I am not a huge fan Injera bread, but figured I would try it. I would still say I am not a fan, but the beef stew served on top was a winner!

The courtyard outside was really beautiful, especially lit up at night.  The wait staff were also so sweet. They started to recognize us since we would eat here every night, and they always had a table ready for our big group.

Laza Restaurant | Address: 8WQP+459, Shegali St, Asmara, Eritrea

Now, this restaurant was not on the safe list, but I walked by, and I was hungry, so decided to risk it and eat here. If you asked me what the name of the dish I had was or what ingredients were in it, I wouldn’t be able to tell you. It tasted like they soaked some bread in sauce, and my verdict is that it was interesting.

I don’t think I would order it again, but I would have definitely gone back to try some other dishes on their menu if I had time.

Alba Bistro Restaurant | Address: 8WPP+PCW, 176-3 St, Asmara, Eritrea

Alba Bistro is such a beautiful restaurant. I wish I would have gotten information on the history. There is a balcony on the second floor overlooking the restaurant and I feel like there is a story there.

Anyway, I ate here on my last day and decided to order fish for the first time on this trip. I devoured the entire thing. It was tender and perfectly seasoned. It was served with ketchup, which complemented it really well. I have never eaten fish with ketchup, but may need to start. (don’t cancel me, please!).

Visit Asmara’s Gorgeous Post Office

There is one post office in the city and it’s worth going into. Built in 1916, the building was originally used as a courthouse before eventually becoming the main post office. If you went to send a post card home, this is the place to do it, or send a post card to yourself and see how long it takes to arrive.

Try Some Gelato at Da Fortuna Gelato Italiano

We couldn’t possibly leave Asmara without stopping for some gelato. Our guide took us to his favorite gelato spot in the city. I would say, it was good, but if you are expecting traditional gelato, you won’t find it here.

They had a good selection of flavors, and it definitely hit the spot after walking and sweating through the city all day.

Crash a Wedding

We happened to be in Asmara during wedding season. Everywhere we walked, there were elaborately pitched tents which, in the evening, would be filled to the brim with people ready to party all night.

Eritreans are so incredibly welcoming that our group got invited to attend a wedding party. If you visit Asmara between December and March, you may be lucky to attend a wedding yourself.

How Eritrean Weddings Work

Eritrean wedding are big events. You could probably ask any random person walking down the street, and they’d tell you about a wedding they’re going to this weekend, even if it’s their neighbor’s sister’s husband’s cousin.

Most traditional Eritrean weddings are split into two main parts. The first day is more formal with the church ceremony and reception, while the second day is all about celebrating in what’s called “melse” or “melsi.”

The first day usually kicks off early in the morning with a church service. Then before the bride and groom enter the reception hall, a group of men come in first, singing and jumping around with swords, this tradition is called “Medebale.”

Finally, the bride and groom walk in with their wedding party to a song called “Mesihaley Doe.”, which I imagine is similar to “Here Comes the Bride”

The second day, is called Melsi. This is more intimate with close family and friends. The bride spends the whole day getting pampered, having her hair braided, getting decorated with intricate henna designs, and putting on gold jewelry.

During the final days leading up to the wedding, bridesmaids play a crucial role. Tradition dictates that neither bride nor groom should be left alone outside the house. This custom dates back to rural times, when a bride-to-be was considered such a treasure that jealous young men might try to steal her away.

Like any wedding, food is an important part of Eritrean weddings. Professional cooks will often be hired, though all the aunties, grandmothers, and family friends pitch in to help.

When we attended the wedding party we were offered plates of food, and it would have been rude to say no, so even though we weren’t hungry, we ate.

The food typically offered is injera served with doro wot, which is a chicken and egg stew. To drink, there’s “sewa,” which is a beer made from grains like millet and sorghum, but making it properly takes weeks of preparation. We had some, and I don’t think our group was a fan, but it was interesting.

The clothing is gorgeous, the Melsi. Brides wear these beautiful ankle-length dresses called “Habesha kemis” made from cotton, usually in white, cream, or beige. Sometimes they’ll add a shawl called “netela” over the dress. Grooms typically wear dashiki suits, basically a matching shirt and pants set in white or natural cotton colors, decorated with traditional Ethiopian and Eritrean patterns and designs.

What I love most about Eritrean weddings is how everything revolves around family, honoring elders and ancestors. There’s a lot of emphasis on getting blessings from the older generation.

It was truly special being invited to a wedding, and seeing all the traditions play out. Everyone was so welcoming.

Also, found this really cool cupholder under the table. I wouldn’t be surprised if this was made at Medebar Market.

Central Market

The Central Market in Asmara, known locally as “Inda Verdura” (which means “veg’s place”), is the city’s main commercial hub. The market sells fresh produce, plus you will find traditional crafts like woven baskets, pottery, and jewelry alongside practical goods. There are also upcycled items like sandals made from old tires.

It’s a great place to go souvenir shopping and to people watch.

Buy Some Freshly Ground Coffee

Eritrea may not be the coffee epicenter of the world, but that doesn’t mean you can’t take home some locally roasted and freshly grounded beans. Our guide took us to this coffee roastery that smelled strongly of burnt coffee, which may or may not be a good sign, depending on how you like your coffee.

We got to see the lovely women working in action. A few of us wanted to buy some coffee to take home, but unfortunately, when we went back in the afternoon, they weren’t open, so make sure if you catch them when they are open to buy some!

I don’t have an address for this place, so you will have to ask a local or your guide to help you find it.

Try Some Locally Made Cheese

Manta Dairy Products | Address: 8WMQ+5JM, Denkel St, Asmara, Eritrea

Manta Dairy Products is one of the few cheese shops in the city, if not the only cheese shop in the city. We walked in and immediately were offered samples. I am not entirely sure what we tried, but I was pleasantly surprised. If I had a way to refrigerate it the cheese we tried, I would have bought some!

Taste Some Local Honey

If you like honey, you are in for a treat!

Honey has a long history in Eritrea, with beekeeping traditions dating back over 3,000 years to the ancient Aksumite period, when honey was traded through the historic port of Adulis. Eritrean beekeeping represents one of the oldest agricultural activities in the region.

That being said, you should definitely consider taking some honey home, but if you don’t have the space in your bag, you can ask for a tasting.

Where to Stay in Asmara

Sunshine Hotel: I stayed at Sunshine hotel with my tour group, and it wasn’t too bad. Our tour leader said it was one of the best hotels in the city. The Wi-Fi was decent, not strong enough to do most browsing, but I could message family and friends, the food was good, and the rooms had everything I needed.

Brief History of Asmara

Early days Asmara started as a small settlement of four villages in the highlands. The name supposedly comes from “Arba Segera” meaning “four villages” in the local language.

Italian colonial period (1889-1941) This is when Asmara really took shape. The Italians made it the capital of their colony “Eritrea Italiana” and went absolutely wild building the place up. They basically designed it as their ideal city, wide boulevards, Art Deco buildings, modernist architecture, cafés, and cinemas. By the 1930s, it was one of the most modern cities in Africa with about 100,000 Italian residents.

British takeover (1941-1952) The British kicked out the Italians during WWII and administered the area. Not much major development happened during this period.

Ethiopian rule (1952-1991) Eritrea was federated with Ethiopia, then fully annexed in 1962. Asmara became just another Ethiopian city. The Italians left, maintenance declined, and the city kind of froze in time while a 30-year independence war raged.

Independence (1991-present) Eritrea won independence and Asmara became the capital of the new country. The city has been remarkably well-preserved.

Why it’s special today All the Italian building from the 1930s are still there and largely intact, which is why UNESCO made it a World Heritage Site.

Things to do in Asmara: FAQS

How Do I Get to Asmara

Getting to Asmara requires flying to Asmara International Airport (ASM). The airport is located about 6.3 miles from the city center, with a taxi ride taking around 15-20 minutes to reach most hotels.

Flight Routes: There are no direct flights from the United States, or Europe, so you’ll need to connect through one of six cities that have direct service to Asmara:

• Istanbul, Turkey (Turkish Airlines) – Most popular route
• Dubai, UAE (Flydubai)
• Jeddah, Saudi Arabia (Flynas)
• Cairo, Egypt (EgyptAir)
• Port Sudan, Sudan (Euroairlines, Tarco Air – seasonal May-October)
• Juba, South Sudan (Turkish Airlines)

How Do I Get a Visa for Eritrea

How Does Arriving at Asmara Airport Work? Going Through Immigration.

What is the Currency Like and How to Change Money

In Eritrea, they use the Eritrean nakfa. Eritrea is not a cheap place to visit, so for 9 days, I brought $400. Our tour leader told us the best place to change money, is at our hotel and in terms of the denominations, the higher, the better. Higher denominations have a better exchange rate, so I brought a couple of hundreds, some 50s and then some 20s and 1s for tips.

Do I Need Cash in Asmara?

You definitely NEED cash in Asmara.

No ATMs anywhere: There are literally zero ATMs in the entire country. None. So whatever cash you don’t bring with you, you can’t get.

Credit cards barely work: Most places don’t accept credit cards at all. Don’t count on using your card for anything.

Bring US dollars or Euros: You’ll need to bring physical cash in US dollars or Euros. Make sure the bills are in good condition, they can be picky about damaged or old bills. For US dollars, they apparently want bills from 2003 or later.

How much to bring: Bring enough for your entire trip since you can’t get more once you’re there and bring more than you think you will need. In case of emergencies etc. Think about:

• Hotel costs (can be $100-200+ per night for decent places)
• Meals ($10-30 per day depending on where you eat)
• Transportation (taxis, permit fees, etc.)
• Souvenirs and incidentals

Where to exchange: Your hotel should be able to exchange it for you, but if not, ask them the best place to exchange or if you have a guide, he should help you.

The local currency: Once exchanged, you’ll get Eritrean Nakfa. The exchange rate is around 15 Nakfa to 1 USD, but rates can change.

What is the Weather Like in Asmara?

How Should I Dress in Asmara?

Asmara is pretty conservative. Below is a mini guide on what you should wear when visiting:

For Women

• Long pants or skirts: that cover the knees
• Tops with sleeves: (3/4 length or full sleeves)
• Modest necklines:  avoid low-cut or revealing tops
• Light scarf or shawl: useful for covering shoulders when needed

For Men

• Long pants: (shorts should reach at least the knee if worn)
• Collared shirts or polo shirts: are appropriate
• Avoid tank tops or sleeveless shirts in public

Religious Sites

• Extra modest dress required when visiting churches or mosques
• Women should cover hair, arms, and legs completely
• Men should wear long pants and covered shoulders
• Remove shoes when entering mosques

Is Asmara Safe?

Yeah, Asmara is actually pretty safe! It’s one of those cities where you can walk around at night without too much worry, which is pretty rare in many African countries. Asmara, I would say, is one of the safest I have been to.

The crime rate is pretty low and violent crime is uncommon. Locals are very friendly and welcoming to foreigners. I found the city very calm and clean. I got a lot of stares which makes sense because the locals probably aren’t used to seeing many westerners, but I never felt unsafe.

The bigger hassle isn’t really safety, it’s all the bureaucratic stuff. You need permits to travel outside the city, which can take a day or more to get and very expensive. It’s doable, just annoying if you want to explore beyond Asmara.

Is Asmara Safe for LGBTQ Travelers?

Unfortunately, Eritrea is really not a safe place for LGBTQ+ travelers. I want to be transparent about the safety for ALL travelers on my blog.

Same-sex relationships are illegal. If caught, the prison sentence could be 5-7 years.  There have been cases of people getting arrested and deported.

There was an Italian professor in 2013 who got fired from his job in Asmara and kicked out of the country for being gay. The government called him a threat to their “moral order.” That should tell you everything you need to know about their laws.

The social climate is just as bad as the legal situation. There’s zero tolerance from society. You can’t even discuss these topics openly.

Even if you thought you could just keep things under wraps while visiting, it’s not worth the risk. And with how isolated Eritrea is politically, your home country’s embassy might not even be able to help you if something goes wrong.

It’s really disappointing the world can’t be accepting, but there are so many other places where you can travel safely and actually enjoy yourself without constantly worrying about hiding who you are. Eritrea just isn’t one of them, unfortunately.

How to Get Around Asmara?

Does Internet Work?

Internet in Asmara is… well, let’s just say you’ll be taking a digital detox whether you want to or not.

The short answer is yes, the internet technically exists, but it’s pretty painful to use.

It’s incredibly slow: If you remember the days of dial up, those are the speeds you will be working with. Even basic web browsing can take forever, and definitely no streaming videos or video calls. I downloaded a bunch of shows and movies before my trip.

Very limited access points: There are only a handful of internet cafés in Asmara, maybe fewer than 10 decent ones. Some hotels offer wifi, but again, it’s very very slow.

Your phone won’t work for data: There’s no mobile data for tourists and SIM cards are difficult to get and set up.

It’s heavily monitored: Many websites are blocked, but surprisingly Instagram worked.

Plan to be mostly offline during your visit. It’s actually kind of nice once you get used to it, but tell people back home, they won’t hear from you much!

Is Asmara Accessible

Can I Freely Travel Around Eritrea from Asmara?

Unfortunately traveling freely around Eritrea from Asmara is difficult. There are pretty strict restrictions that you need to deal with.

You need permits for everything: You can’t go more than 25 km outside Asmara without getting a travel permit first. There are military checkpoints on all the roads. Even if you want to visit popular spots like Massawa or Keren, you require permission.

The permit process You have to apply at the Ministry of Tourism office in Asmara. It usually takes about 24 hours, but sometimes several days. They want to know exactly which car you’ll be using, the license plate number, and your full itinerary. There’s no guarantee they’ll approve your request either.

Transportation restrictions You need to provide vehicle registration details when applying for permits, which means you need to rent a car with a driver or have some other private transport arranged.

Checkpoints everywhere There are military checkpoints on all major roads between cities. Soldiers will check your permit, passport, and sometimes photograph your documents.

Some places are completely off-limits The border areas with Ethiopia are forbidden, plus various other regions depending on current political situations. The government decides what’s accessible to tourists, and that can change.

You can explore Asmara freely, but anywhere else requires planning, paperwork, and government approval. It’s definitely not the kind of place where you can just show up and hope for the best.

How do I Book Hotels in Asmara?

Booking hotels in Asmara is a bit more complicated than your typical destination, but here are your options:

Online booking (before you go) Sites like Booking.com, Expedia, Tripadvisor, and Agoda do list some Asmara hotels, but the selection is really limited. You might find places like Hotel Asmara Palace, Crystal Hotel, or Albergo Italia (but I wouldn’t stay here) available online. Book well in advance since there aren’t many hotels and availability is tight.

Direct contact Your best bet is probably calling or emailing hotels directly. Many have basic websites with contact info. The better hotels like Asmara Palace usually have phone numbers and email addresses you can reach from abroad.

Through a local tour operator If you’re working with a local tour company for your travel permits anyway, they can often help arrange accommodation. They have relationships with hotels and can book for you.

Payment heads up Most hotels want cash payment in US dollars or Euros. Credit cards are rarely accepted, so bring enough physical currency to cover your whole stay.

Popular hotels to look for:

• Hotel Asmara Palace (the fanciest option, former InterContinental)
• Crystal Hotel Asmara
• Expo Hotel

Should I have Any Apps Downloaded for Eritrea?

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Travel Resources

First off, if you want to browse all my favorite travel resources, check out my Travel Resources page.

Trip Planning: I have put together the ultimate trip planning guide that will walk you through everything you need to know to plan your perfect trip.

Book your Flight: Check out Momondo! They are my go to for booking flights. Airfarewatchdog is also a favorite of mine. I get notified by email every time there is a good deal from my local airport. WayAway is also a good option. They list mistake fares so many times, you can get an international ticket for as little as $300!

Book your Transportation: Busbud is usually where I check first. They check hundreds of different transportation companies all over the world and find you the best bus deal. Flixbus is one of my favorite cheap options for Europe. The buses generally aren’t too bad, and they go to most countries around Europe. It’s the perfect option for short distances. Train travel is my favorite mode of transportation, and I always use Rail Europe to book my tickets. If you need a transfer from the airport or if you are going somewhere where transport is limited (like a festival in the middle of nowhere or even a day trip) Welcome Pickups is a great option. I have used them on multiple occasions, and you can book a ride 5 hours in advance!

Book your Accommodation: My number one is Booking. If you book enough hotels from them, you can get huge discounts and perks like free breakfast and room upgrade. On a budget and looking for cheap accommodation? Hostelworld is my preferred site to book cheap and reliable hostels. Hotwire has a fun mystery to it. It’s a great site to use for last-minute bookings. They don’t actually tell you the name of the hotel when you are browsing. You will just get the area of the city it’s in, the price, and how many stars it has. I love the surprise aspect of it! Traveling to Asia? Agoda is the best accommodation booking site! If you are traveling with a big group, Vrbo is a good option. They have a huge selection of vacation rentals. Hotellook allows you to compare hotel prices around the world, so you can find the best deal!

Book your Travel Insurance: Getting travel insurance is such a crucial part of preparing for a trip. You never know what could happen, and why take the risk? Before I travel anywhere, I always book my insurance through Visitors Coverage.

Book your Activities: Now, you have planned all the logistics, time to think about what you will do once you get to your destination! These are a few of my favorite trip planning sites. I always use Get Your Guide and Viator when I am looking for tours. If you are traveling to Asia, Klook is widely used to book activities. Go City sells tickets to top attractions for up to 65% off. Eat With allows you to book dinners or cooking classes with local families. If you enjoy self-guided walking tours, We Go Trip has audio guides you can download. Big Bus Tours offers open-top sightseeing tours.

Store Your Luggage: Do you have a long layover or a late flight and need to store your luggage? Radical Storage has got you covered.

Get an eSim: Airlalo has been an amazing way for me to stay connected on the road. They have eSims in 200 countries and set up is super easy.